My comprehensive guide to Kratie in northern Cambodia aims to inspire you to explore this often-overlooked region. In this guide, you’ll find travel tips from Phnom Penh to Kratie, recommendations for accommodation, and a rundown of must-see attractions, including the opportunity to witness the famous Irrawaddy dolphins.
I have a deep appreciation for rural Cambodia, especially the northern stretches along the Mekong River.
During my year in Phnom Penh, Kampong Cham, Kampong Chhnang, and Kampot became some of my favorite destinations. When my father visited and we traveled together to Kratie, it quickly earned a special place in my heart as well.
Kratie’s traditional stilt houses offer a glimpse into its unique charm.
Situated approximately four hours by car from Phnom Penh via National Road 7, Kratie offers a tranquil escape as you journey deeper into the heart of Cambodia, away from the hustle of the capital. The landscape of rice fields, lotus farms, and quaint wooden villages creates a stark contrast to Phnom Penh’s bustling atmosphere.
Kratie is an excellent spot to relax and rejuvenate. I suggest spending at least two nights here to make the long drive worthwhile (detailed travel information is provided in the next section).
Although Kratie may seem quiet with limited activities, its appeal lies in its simplicity. You can embark on a boat trip to spot the elusive Irrawaddy dolphins, cycle around Koh Trong island, explore local pagodas, and enjoy one of the most breathtaking Mekong sunsets in the region. This is the essence of rural Cambodian travel.
This guide to Kratie covers Krong Kratie (Kratie city), Koh Trong island, and nearby areas including Chhlong, Kampi in Kratie Province, and Sambor District to the north.
This travel guide includes recommendations for things to do in Kratie, where to stay, dining options, and transportation details from Phnom Penh to Kratie.
Where is Kratie?
Kratie is located on the Mekong River, 240 kilometers north of Phnom Penh, Cambodia’s capital. The nearest major city is Kampong Cham, 130 kilometers downstream, while Stung Treng (the gateway to Ratanakiri) is about 140 kilometers further north.
The Laos-Cambodia border is about 200 kilometers (approximately 3 hours’ drive) to the north.
Due to its location, Kratie serves as an ideal stopover between Phnom Penh and Mondulkiri/Ratanakiri or Don Det and the 4,000 Islands in Laos.
Kratie town is the administrative center of Kratie Province. In this guide, when I mention ‘Kratie,’ I’m typically referring to the town rather than the province. On Google Maps and elsewhere, it’s often written phonetically as ‘Kracheh.’
What is Kratie known for?
Kratie is best known for its Irrawaddy dolphins, a critically endangered species that inhabits the Mekong River. The area hosts a few small dolphin pods, which you can see by taking a boat ride from Kampi, about 15 kilometers north of the town.
Besides the wildlife, Kratie boasts some remarkable pagodas (including the largest wat in Cambodia), water activities, and cycling opportunities.
Is Kratie worth visiting?
Kratie is a serene, small town embodying the rural essence of Cambodia. The town features a modest selection of hotels and restaurants, all with picturesque riverfront views.
As an advocate for off-the-beaten-path travel and exploring less frequented destinations, I often recommend Kratie to fellow travelers (hence this guide!). I find it charming, though I understand it may not appeal to everyone.
If you’re interested in nature, eco-tourism, and wildlife, Kratie is a worthy destination. Likewise, if temples, local markets, and small towns intrigue you, Kratie should be on your itinerary (especially if paired with a visit to Kampong Cham, which remains my favorite spot in Cambodia).
The primary consideration for visiting is travel time. The journey from Phnom Penh to Kratie by taxi takes at least 4 hours, longer by bus. If your time in Cambodia is limited, spending such a long time on the road might be a drawback, especially if you’re not traveling further north.
How to get from Phnom Penh to Kratie
You can travel from Phnom Penh to Kratie by bus, minivan, or private car. If coming from Siem Reap, you can bypass the capital by transferring buses in Kampong Thom or Kampong Cham.
Traveling through Phnom Penh is generally the best option.
Phnom Penh to Kratie by Bus or Minivan
Several local bus companies serve the route from Phnom Penh to Kratie, including Virak Buntham, Thang Vang, Sorya, and Heng Sokkhoeun Express. Heng Sokkhoeun Express and Thang Vang are the quickest options, reaching Kratie in 5-6 hours via minivan. The first van departs Phnom Penh at 4:30 am (Thang Vang), and the last one leaves at 7:30 pm (Heng Sokkhoeun Express).
I strongly recommend traveling during daylight hours and avoiding night travel in Cambodia.
Tickets are priced at 10 USD, with departures from the corner of Street 134 and Street 139, about 1 kilometer west of Phnom Penh’s Central Market. Tickets can be purchased at the office or online via Bookaway.
Sorya bus is a more economical choice at 9 USD, but it takes approximately 7 hours. Two buses depart Phnom Penh daily at 7 am and 9:30 am from the Sorya stop at the south-western corner of the Central Market. Tickets can be bought at the office or online in advance.
Note: The Cambodia Post VIP Van service from Phnom Penh to Kratie has ceased operation.
Phnom Penh to Kratie by Taxi
Given the condition of the road between Phnom Penh and Kratie, I prefer private car travel.
During our visit to Kratie, we hired a driver for the entire weekend. On the first day, the driver transported us from Phnom Penh to Kratie. The following morning, he took us to Sambor before returning us to Phnom Penh.
You can book a car and driver online through Bookaway or inquire at your Phnom Penh accommodation.
Stopping off in Kratie on your way from Cambodia to Laos (or vice versa)
Kratie is only a 3-hour drive from the Cambodia-Laos border, making it a convenient stopover if you’re traveling between the two countries.
As there are no direct vans or buses from the border to Kratie, you’ll need to arrange your transport creatively. The simplest option is to take a bus from Don Det to the border, cross on foot, and then arrange for a driver to meet you on the Cambodian side to take you to Kratie. Check out recent travel reports for tips on crossing the Laos-Cambodia border independently.
Remember, you may need a tourist visa for Cambodia or Laos if crossing overland. Use iVisa to check your requirements and arrange an expedited visa online.
Where to stay in Kratie
Accommodation in Kratie town tends to be basic, though there are more luxurious options on Koh Trong island or nearby Le Relais de Chhlong (more on this historic property later).
Here are some highly recommended hotels in Kratie based on guest reviews.
Budget Accommodation in Kratie
Pomelo Homestay (from 17 USD) offers an authentic experience. Located on Koh Trong island, the host Vireak is enthusiastic about helping guests explore the area and even involves them in cooking Khmer cuisine.
For a hotel stay, Balcony Guesthouse and Restaurant (from 8 USD) provides great riverfront views and a convenient location. Expect to pay a bit extra for a room with a river view.
Mid-Range Accommodation in Kratie
Mombrocheabrey Hotel offers stylish and comfortable rooms starting from 20 USD. Though set back from the riverfront, there are top-floor rooms with Mekong views.
Luxury Accommodation in Kratie
Rajabori Villas Resort provides upscale lodging in a beautifully decorated traditional Khmer wooden house, with rooms starting from 65 USD. Located on Koh Trong island, the property features lush gardens and a large swimming pool.
Things to Do in Kratie & Surroundings
Here’s my list of top activities in and around Kratie. Since the attractions are spread out, it’s best to have your own car and driver, or rent a tuk-tuk for the day.
(Note: Pass App currently doesn’t service Kratie, but tuk-tuks can be easily arranged through your accommodation or by finding a driver on the street.)
Mekong River Cruise & Kratie Dolphin Watching
A cruise to see the Irrawaddy dolphins is a must-do in Kratie. Plan your trip around the dolphin viewing opportunities, as the best chance to see them is in the early afternoon. If you’re staying for just one night, aim to arrive early enough.
You can spot these unique river dolphins by traveling about 15 kilometers north of Kratie and boarding a long-boat at Kampi. The operation is well-organized with a ticket booth and a flat rate per person.
Although sightings are not guaranteed, a pod is often spotted with the help of
a knowledgeable boatman who knows their usual feeding grounds. A short boat ride and some patience usually yield results.
Kratie’s Irrawaddy dolphins are known for their distinctive bulbous foreheads and lack of beaks. They’re a critically endangered species, so sightings are both rare and special.
A dolphin-watching tour costs approximately 10 USD per person, plus an additional fee for the boat ride.
Koh Trong Island
Koh Trong Island, located a short ferry ride across the Mekong River from Kratie town, is ideal for a day trip. Rent a bicycle and explore the island’s quiet roads, passing through villages and rural landscapes.
The island offers plenty of activities and local eateries. Several homestays provide authentic local experiences, which is a wonderful way to engage with the local culture.
Kampi Village
Kampi is a charming village and the main hub for dolphin-watching tours. It’s a great spot to relax and enjoy riverside views.
Pagodas and Temples in Kratie
Kratie boasts several impressive pagodas and temples worth visiting. Among them is Wat Phnom Srei, which houses a statue of a female Buddhist deity and features panoramic views of the surrounding landscape.
Sambor Village
Sambor Village is a quiet, rural area where you can witness traditional Khmer life. It’s a good place to explore local markets and sample traditional cuisine.
Riverfront Promenade in Kratie
The riverfront promenade in Kratie is an excellent spot to enjoy a Mekong sunset, relax, and observe local life.
