As the man with the overflowing eskies guided us deeper into the small passenger ferry, it was clear that Koh Pu was not going to be your typical Thai island.
We had left behind the crowds of flip-flop-wearing tourists at Krabi Airport’s arrivals hall a few hours earlier, and wouldn’t encounter them again until our return to the mainland in four days. As the only foreigners on board, we found ourselves wedged between three families, all trying to stifle their laughter, as we set off from Laem Kruat pier into the Andaman’s open waters.
With the children on board quickly nestling into their mothers’ sarongs and drifting off to sleep, we enjoyed a surreal, unobstructed view of pristine, whitewashed islands.
During high season, there are two main ways to get to Koh Pu (‘crab island’), and this local ferry is the less favored choice among travelers. However, compared to the chaotic scene on the Koh Lanta super ferry, this calm and peaceful ride felt like a perfect introduction to Koh Pu’s serene shores.
Koh Pu, the northernmost part of Koh Jum, is situated northwest of Koh Lanta. Its coastline may not feature the dramatic cliffs of nearby Koh Phi Phi or the extensive tourist infrastructure of other islands, but Koh Pu has its own unique charm.
A person strolls along the beach at sunset in Koh Pu, Thailand.
A 45-minute motorboat ride from Krabi Province’s mainland brings you to a modest residential area on Koh Pu’s eastern shore. From there, motorbikes transport visitors across the island to the western side, where most of the bungalow resorts are located.
Koh Pu is quite small compared to other Thai islands, with just seven resorts and around 100 bungalows in total.
The island’s interior is primarily untamed rainforest, home to monkeys. There are no convenience stores, ATMs, or the usual tourist amenities found in Phuket. Instead, each small resort along the coast features a cash-only beachfront restaurant, and evenings are spent strolling along the beach between lantern-lit dining tables.
Lacking bars and ‘buckets,’ Koh Pu doesn’t cater to the party crowd often found on other Thai islands. The main beach, shaped like a tranquil cove, with its gentle waters, is a favorite spot for families.
Bonhomie Beach Cottages
Bonhomie Beach Cottages is the first resort in Koh Pu’s western cove. Shielded by the mountain to the east, the resort’s beachfront not only offers stunning Andaman sunsets but is also shaded in the mornings.
The few bamboo and dark-wood bungalows, designed by the owner’s son to blend with the surrounding forest, rise gently up the hillside. Each bungalow features an open-air en suite and a shaded patio. Of the four nearby restaurants we visited, Bonhomie’s Thai dishes were our top pick.
Getting to Koh Pu
Traveling between Koh Pu and Krabi Airport (or Krabi Town) is straightforward. Option one is taking the local boat (100 baht per person) from Laem Kruat pier (a 600-baht taxi ride from the airport). You’ll need an additional 100 baht to reach the island’s western shore by motorbike (a driver will be arranged on the ferry).
The second option is to arrange a transfer through Bonhomie to/from Krabi Pier. We opted for this service on our return trip at 400 baht per person. Adding the cost of a taxi ride to the airport, the total expense is similar to the first option. The island has good phone reception and most resorts provide Wi-Fi, but there are no ATMs, so bring plenty of cash.
Food and drink are relatively expensive by Thai standards—averaging 150 baht for a meal of chicken and rice (Koh Pu’s restaurants are mostly pork-free due to the island’s large Muslim population)—so budget accordingly. What’s your favorite Thai island?
