Myths About Traveling in Myanmar: One thing I often hear about Myanmar is that the country is evolving quickly. “Go now, before it’s too late,” people used to tell me. After spending nearly a month in Myanmar in October 2023
and exchanging stories with friends who recently traveled there, I can confirm that things are indeed changing rapidly—at least from a tourist’s perspective. As we left Yangon on the eve of the country’s first truly democratic election, there was also a sense of anticipation for another kind of change in the air.
The Rise of Tourism in Myanmar
Myanmar’s tourism sector, as we know it today, began in 2011 when Aung San Suu Kyi endorsed responsible tourism. Before that, many travelers boycotted Myanmar due to its political climate. Despite ongoing social issues, particularly concerning the Rohingya Muslim population in western Myanmar, the country now attracts millions of tourists—a significant shift from 25 years ago.
The introduction of an e-visa scheme last year, along with the opening of land borders with Thailand, has made Myanmar more accessible, affordable, and popular, especially among backpackers. This rapid change contrasts sharply with Myanmar’s relaxed, easy-going nature, where life moves at its own pace. Consequently, misinformation and rumors about traveling in Myanmar have become widespread.
Before our trip, we heard various tales about what it’s like for foreigners to travel in Myanmar, mostly based on outdated or exaggerated stories. One friend even asked if it was true that foreign women couldn’t drink alcohol in public (which is not true). Here are seven common myths about traveling in Myanmar and the truths I discovered while journeying from Mandalay to Yangon.
1 – Group Tours are a Must
While this may have been true at one point, it certainly isn’t the case now. Independent travel in Myanmar is both safe and straightforward, and it’s an excellent choice if you want to stray from the well-worn tourist paths. We booked most of our trip from home, including flights, hotels (mostly via Agoda), guesthouses, and some activities. We also inquired about various treks via email and always received prompt responses from business owners. At no point during our travels did we feel that a guide would have made things easier. Even if we had tried to get lost in Myanmar, it would have been nearly impossible—the locals were far too friendly and helpful.
Traveling independently also has important implications for responsible tourism. By choosing local guesthouses, shopping at small stores, and dining at a variety of restaurants, you can distribute your tourism dollars more widely and support local businesses. In a developing country, the last thing I want is for my money to end up in the pockets of multinational corporations.
These days, travelers also tend to rely heavily on another type of guidebook, but I don’t think you need that either. Nowhere have I seen more well-thumbed copies of Lonely Planet than on the streets of Myanmar. Here, more than anywhere else, travelers seem to cling to their guidebooks as if they’re essential for getting around—and that’s simply not true. As a local in Yangon told us, the information in Lonely Planet Myanmar is often outdated by the time it’s printed. We found numerous errors in our copy, some of which were glaring research oversights. By the end of the trip, we had almost given up on using it.
2 – Trains Should Be Avoided
I initially avoided local trains after hearing horror stories, like the one from my friend Rodrigo, who told me his train car detached from the tracks, leaving him stranded in the middle of a forest with no one around. I was a bit hesitant about using public transportation for long distances in Myanmar, especially after reading similar accounts. However, Myanmar’s old, rickety, and slow train system is actually well-suited to overland travel in the country. Seat 61 agrees, and after reading his review, we embraced train travel without hesitation.
If you have the luxury of time, I would choose a 10-hour journey on the world’s bumpiest, most turbulent, and possibly slowest train over a four-hour minibus ride any day. Myanmar’s trains are incredibly cheap and are the way locals travel. Our first train journey was smooth, and though our second train broke down, leaving us in a field for five hours, it was still a fantastic experience.
The idea of taking overnight buses made me more anxious. But the overnight bus from Bagan to Yangon, operated by JJ Buses, turned out to be one of the most comfortable overland journeys I’ve ever had. I didn’t take any photos, but the plushness of the leather seats on this bus was remarkable.
3 – ATMs are Scarce
Not at all. We found plenty of ATMs in every city and town we visited, and we never had any issues using our Visa cards. On the topic of money, you don’t really need US dollars either. I can’t believe how many people still think otherwise! After several restaurants and cafes rejected our US bills for even the slightest crease, we were eager to get rid of them and used them all at once to pay a hotel bill. Stick to the local currency, Kyat, which is dispensed in conveniently small denominations from ATMs.
4 – Traveling in Myanmar is Cheap
Unfortunately, this isn’t true. While accommodation prices are lower during the rainy and shoulder seasons, there are also fewer travelers. While this is generally a good thing, it does have financial drawbacks. Without others to join our trek, we had to pay for the equivalent of four people, even though we were just a pair. While having our guide to ourselves was amazing, it significantly increased the cost of our trek. Food and drink are affordable, but still more expensive than in northern Thailand. As demand and competition increase over the next few years, prices will likely decrease.
5 – Food Poisoning is Inevitable
Eating our way through Myanmar was one of the highlights of our trip. Indian, Nepalese, traditional Shan cuisine—I loved it all. Lahpet thoke, a local delicacy, is a must-try, and hygiene concerns shouldn’t stop you from enjoying this salad made with fresh tomatoes, pickled tea leaves, and other delicious ingredients. We ate fruit, drank bottled water with ice, and never had any issues.
That said, food poisoning can happen. Myanmar isn’t like Thailand, where street food in Chiang Mai or Bangkok is typically cooked to order in a blazing, germ-killing wok. In Myanmar, we found many dishes, especially curries, sitting in barely warm clay pots, waiting to be served. We avoided those places in favor of mid-range cafes and restaurants. Although tea shops may appear grungy, they generally have good hygiene practices behind the scenes.
6 – There’s No WIFI in Myanmar
Myanmar, the perfect place for that digital detox you’ve been planning—not quite. I was so prepared for a WIFI-free holiday in Myanmar that I left my laptop at home. But we found good connections in every hotel and many cafes. The speed was even good enough to download a few movies in Bagan! If you’re not in the habit of booking accommodation ahead of time, it’s possible to do so while you’re in the country if you have a laptop or mobile device.
7 – Don’t Talk to Strangers
Myanmar’s socio-political situation is complex—too complex to cover here—but due to long-standing oppression and political unrest, people often advise against approaching locals. However, not only are people approachable and eager to chat with tourists, but they also often initiated conversations with us. People were generally too polite to stare, but when it came to taking photos, they were unabashed! At many popular temples in Mandalay and Yangon, we became targets for selfies.
Myanmar tourists, locals, even monks and nuns, all wanted photos with us, two particularly pale Europeans. We sometimes posed for 15 minutes while entire families—grandparents, parents, children, and even uncles and cousins—took turns. We weren’t bothered; we found it endearing and loved the opportunity to interact with locals. It was the ultimate ‘awkward family portrait.’
If you do talk to people—and I highly recommend that you do—be mindful of what you discuss. Myanmar people are humble and kind, but they are also proud of their country. As one author noted, they want to know that people outside Myanmar are thinking of them, that they haven’t been forgotten, and that foreigners are interested in their lives. Just before the November 2023 elections, many locals were eager to discuss politics with us and share their views. We never pushed the topic, but it was always the locals who initiated these conversations.
Final Thoughts on Myanmar
Myanmar was the highlight of my travels in 2015. I didn’t let anything I read deter me from visiting the country, and for that, I’m truly grateful. Did you dispel any travel myths during your time in Myanmar?
