Best Khao Soi in Chiang Mai: Spicy, salty, sour, and sweet—nowhere else does the intricate dance of these flavors matter more than in Thailand.
After landing in Chiang Mai and eager to dive into local cuisine, we decided to try a dish that captures this balance perfectly: khao soi.
Northern Thailand’s Iconic Street Dish
Khao soi, a hearty soup with a rich texture, is believed to have originated in Myanmar’s Shan State before being adapted by Northern Thais. While it’s rarely found on Thai menus outside of Thailand—our options in Brisbane are scarce—Chiang Mai offers a plethora of spots that specialize in this dish. Khao Soi Mae Sai is one such place.
A travel blog tip led us to this no-frills, open-air restaurant on Ratchaphuek Road, a short walk north-west of the Old City and my temporary lodging, where I had been battling the flu for the past 48 hours. Khao Soi Mae Sai might just be the reason I recovered so quickly.
What Exactly is Khao Soi?
Referred to by chef Mrs. Kawichai as a “noodle curry soup,” khao soi blends elements of Vietnamese pho, Massaman curry, and Spaghetti Bolognese. It starts with a fiery paste made from chili, galangal, and shallots, which is then mixed with a mild broth and brightened with a squeeze of fresh citrus.
Prepared in large quantities hours before mealtime, this aromatic, slightly oily broth is served over a nest of noodles upon order.
Originally made with hand-cut vermicelli from steamed dough, the noodles give khao soi (which means “cut rice”) its name. In Northern Thailand, though, thick egg noodles have replaced rice noodles, which are still used in Northern Laos.
Typically, the dish includes a protein—such as pork, chicken, beef, or even water snake. Khao Soi Mae Sai features a variant from Mae Sai District in northern Chiang Rai Province, which includes gelatinous chunks of curdled blood.
We choose the Khao Soi Moo, which features pork prepared two ways—thinly sliced and minced, providing a texture reminiscent of Bolognese sauce. To add variety, half of the egg noodles are cooked and submerged in the soup, while the other half are deep-fried and placed on top.
The soup, enriched with coconut milk, delivers a creamy consistency with a surprisingly mild chili heat, though my diminished sense of taste might be affecting how I perceive it.
Tailoring Your Khao Soi Experience
There’s no need to alter a classic—think of the vibrant bowl served by Mrs. Kawichai as a foundation. The true beauty of khao soi lies in customizing it with various condiments. Presented in tall glasses on a sleek steel tray, these condiments might even become the highlight of your meal.
For our two bowls of khao soi, we receive eight different condiments: four types of chili (flaked, sauced, pasted, and fresh green), granulated palm sugar (to temper the heat), pickled mustard greens, fresh lime and shallots, and my personal favorite—crushed peanuts.
At only 40 baht per bowl, there’s no reason not to come back and experiment with different combinations. The delicious balance of sweet, sour, salty, and spicy will remain just as enticing tomorrow.
